Paris Fashion Week: Hedi Slimane Saint Laurent SS16 show sees Agyness Deyn return to catwalk
Hedi Slimane's Best Runway Moments at Saint Laurent
For his controversial debut, Slimane introduced some witchy women in the spirit of rock star Stevie Nicks—complete with lace-up leather, flowing black chiffon and pointed hats.
Commencing a legacy of celebrating young musical talent, Slimane shot Sky Ferreira in style elements that would become his mainstays: black lace, capes and duffer coats.
Fall exited the '70s and entered an era of '90s grunge, leveraging ripped denim, plaids and ultra-feminine details like florals against edgy lace-up boots, set to the sounds of
North Cali garage band Thee Oh Sees.
Resort 2014 put an emphasis on the Saint Laurent bags that would become staples for everyone from girls at the clubs in logo chain-strap cross-bodies to working women with top-handle classic nanos. Who's to say she's not the same girl?
With Le Smoking jumpsuits, lip prints and high-shine, one-shoulder fitted party dresses, Slimane brought the Saint Laurent woman back to the heyday of Debbie Harry at Blondie and emphasized some Yves Saint Laurent hallmarks.
And just like that, Slimane took his time machine back to a youthquaking London in the 1960s—making it his own with enviable statement fur coats and high-octane mini dresses. The invites were done by John Baldessari, illustrating the designer's support of the LA art scene.
In one of his most overtly bohemian collections, Slimane's Resort 2015 ladies referenced late '60s bohemia, which Slimane dubbed "Psych Rock's New Rising," according to the place cards on seats at the show.
Set to a custom soundtrack by Al Eide, the Spring 2015 show was more cool-girl fare, but this time with playful feminine prints, a bold color story and even a sparkling turban. It's all about the accessories, after all.
Taking a quick break from Cali cool, Slimane paid homage to young Parisian musicians like Vickie Chérie, Leo Bear Creek and Melody Prochet,who were part of his "Paris Sessions" projectand sat front row at the show. The clothes, naturally, celebrated a cool Parisian bohème.
Short, tight leather mini dresses slit up-to-there, cigarette pants and skinny ties and a beauty look that falls somewhere between Siouxsie Sioux and a Robert Palmer girl brought Slimane back to the '80s for Fall 2015— to drive home the idea, there were even some shredded stockings.
The Resort season should be about laidback vacation vibes, no? Slimane thought so, titling this collection Surf Sound: A Tribute to Contemporary Californian
Surf Music Culture. We can easily see the Saint Laurent girl in a Fair Isle poncho listening to music outdoors at sunset in Venice Beach.
In a nod to Saint Laurent fan Courtney Love, models donned tiaras for Spring 2019. Bias-cut slip dresses, chubby furs, sheer mini dresses and Kate Moss-at-Glastonbury knee high boots finish this glam-rock seasonal story.
Slimane skipped the whole Paris scene for Pre-Fall 2019, showing his collection in LA before New York Fashion Week, thus allowing for a slew of buzzy front-row possibilities including Justin Bieber and Courtney Love. This collection felt most 1970s Yves Saint Laurent, with wide-waist belts, Victoriana elements, flowing midi dresses and velvet details—all ultra-luxe and perfectly tailored.
And for what we've come to know as his Saint Laurent swan song, Slimane put on his very own couture show in Paris for Fall 2019, complete with chairs with engraved plaques for each guest and a full-on Reagan-era '80s homage. There were dramatic sleeves, ultra-minis, ultra-plunging dresses, fur coats that enter the room before the girl does and overt, unapologetic glam like we haven't seen in years. Even if you didn't like it, it's impossible to say it wasn't impactful—which may be a statement that encompasses Slimane's full tenure at Saint Laurent (skip the Yves).
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